Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Vegetarian Refried Beans, Perfected

Over the past couple of years, I've found myself consuming less and less meat. Though I don't consider myself a vegetarian because I eat seafood, the flesh of land-based animals is really no longer part of my diet. Health reasons certainly do factor in to my move away from meat, but my reasons are mostly political – I simply want to support institutionalized farming as little as possible, which leaves me very few realistic meat-eating options. (Yes, even the animals raised at high-priced, hoity-toity, organic, free-range farms eventually wind up at the same horrifying slaughterhouses where everything else is processed.)

Fortunately, vegetarian cooking is no longer the stodgy, grimly-healthful fare that it used to be. T
hanks to food writers like Deborah Madison, Mark Bittman, and Madhur Jaffrey, there now seems to be an endless supply of fabulous vegetarian recipes to choose from, all written with taste in mind.

I have quite a few cookbooks, and though I do love my numerous vegetarian volumes, I've found that some of the best meat-free recipes can be found in non-vegetarian cookbooks. Case in point is The Best Light Recipe, by the editors of Cook's Illustrated, a book I picked up around the beginning of the year after resolving to eat more healthfully. Typical of Cook's Illustrated, it's a fairly meat-heavy collection, but it also contains quite a few delicious, low-fat vegetarian recipes: a great mac & cheese (yes, a low-fat mac & cheese that actually tastes good!), excellent veggie burgers far superior to anything you can find commercially, and some really good lentil dishes. It's also full of great tips on how to cut calories without sacrificing flavor. Reducing oil by a significant amount, for instance, is a no-brainer for slimming down a recipe, but our friends at Cook's Illustrated take that reduced amount of oil and use a very small amount of it to sauté, then finish the dish at the end with the remaining oil. (Try it sometime; it makes a huge difference.)

I'm always looking for quick, easy, inexpensive protein sources that can freeze well, so naturally, one dish in The Best Light Recipe that caught my eye immediately was low-fat refried beans. With high hopes, I gave them a try, and although they tasted fine, I felt something was missing. Even though they contained a fair amount of onions, garlic and jalapeño, the results were.... bland. Salt helped a bit, but what they really needed was acidity. A liberal dousing of Tapatío balanced things out, but I wanted beans that tasted good right out of the pot, so I made a few modifications the next time around.

After playing with the recipe a bit, I found that adding a few tablespoons of tomato paste gave the recipe the zing I was looking for. I also threw in some smoked paprika, an ingredient I've found adds a depth of flavor to most recipes that's akin to bacon. The results were exactly what I was looking for in vegetarian refried beans – tangy, smoky, spicy and complex. In short, perfection.

Although this recipe can be made with canned beans for convenience, I highly recommend cooking dried beans from scratch. They require a bit of advanced planning since they need to be soaked overnight before cooking, but they are very easy, and their flavor and texture are far superior to those of canned beans. As an added bonus, ounce for ounce, they are much less expensive than their canned counterparts.

Served with tortillas, chopped tomatoes, shredded lettuce, and some sour cream or yogurt, these beans make a hell of a good, nutritious, inexpensive meal.

Delicious as Hell.

Low-Fat Vegetarian Refried Beans

Adapted from The Best Light Recipe, by The Editors of Cook's Illustrated

Ingredients:

5-1/4 cup cooked beans (recipe below) with their liquid, or three 15.5 oz cans, drained and rinsed
1 cup water (if using canned beans)
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 large jalapeño chile, seeds and ribs removed (or not, if you dare), then minced

4 teaspoons olive oil
Salt
2 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed
3 tbs tomato paste
1 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1/4 cup minced cilantro
Hot pepper sauce

1. Process beans (plus water, if using canned beans) is a food processor for about 2 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as necessary. You should have a thick, silky puree. If f not, add water a little at a time until the desired texture is reached.

2. Combine the onion, jalapeño, 1 teaspoon of oil and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a medium saucepan over medium-low flame. Cover and cook until the vegetables are softened, 8-10 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cumin and cook another 30 seconds, the stir in the tomato paste and cook for another minute, stirring constantly.

3. Add the pureed beans and stir until thoroughly combined. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans have thickened, about 10 minutes.

4. Stir in the cilantro and remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Season with salt and hot sauce to taste.

Yield: 6 servings


Per serving: 230 calories; 3 g fat, 38 g carb, 14 g protein, 11 g fiber

Cooked Beans

Ingredients:

2 cups dried beans (pinto, black, kidney -- your choice)
6 cups water

1. Soak dried beans in enough water to cover by several inches. Drain.

2. Combine beans and water in a large saucepan. Simmer 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hour, or until the beans are tender.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Shriveled Minds?

Am I the only person who’s annoyed by the recent “dried plums” PR campaign? Are we Americans really so stupid that the mere name of a particular food could prevent us from enjoying it?

I’ve loved prunes since I was a kid. What’s not to love? They’re like giant raisins but with a much more sophisticated flavor. I even love the taste of prune juice – a secret I kept well-guarded from my childhood friends, who teased me relentlessly just for being so bizarre as to like (gasp!) spinach. And before virtually eliminating commercial soft drinks from my life for culinary-political reasons, I loved Dr. Pepper, which I’ve heard uses prune flavor as its base. (“Virtually” means I only drink soft drinks when combined with alcohol. The thought of never again being able to enjoy Captain Morgan’s and Dr. Pepper is more than I can bear, and ever so slightly outweighs my antipathy for Big Food. I am, after all, an admitted food whore.)


And then there are prune desserts. The French are light years ahead of us on this point. Prunes are seemingly ubiquitous in French desserts, and for good reason. Their gorgeous, complex tang is a natural foil to more decadent ingredients like butter and cream. Think prunes in bread pudding, armagnac-soaked prunes with vanilla ice cream, and port-stewed prunes with creme fraiche.


Prunes are also wonderful in savory dishes, and can hold their own against very strong flavors and spices. The first time I used prunes in a savory dish was about 10 years ago. It was a recipe called Chicken Marbella that I acquired from my then roommate and years later found was originally published in 1979’s The Silver Palate Cookbook by Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso. My young, underdeveloped palate was not quite accustomed to the combination of sweet and savory flavors, so when I saw 2 cups of pitted prunes among the other ingredients – garlic, oregano, olives, capers, white wine – I was reluctant. My roommate, though, raved about the dish, so I decided to give it a try. It knocked me out, and after making it about 5 additional times that month, my fear of sweet/savory flavor combinations melted away. Best of all, though, I learned that the use of my beloved prune need not be limited to desserts.


Mention the word “prune” to the average American, though, and you’ll invariably get a wrinkled-nosed, sour look and a muttered reply involving grandmothers and constipation. Yes, my older family members drank prune juice to keep them regular, but I never understood why that bothered people so much. The bottom line for me has always been that they taste so damned good. I never cared that they could also be used to relieve irregularity, a benefit that now, as I get older, I very much appreciate.


In her wonderful cookbook The New American Cooking, Joan Nathan includes a revealing little tidbit about the prunes vs. dried plums phenomenon. Apparently, when a Houston television station performed a taste test, 90% of people preferred dried plums to prunes. Sadly, I think that says it all.


If I can look past the fact that companies like Sunsweet are now further polluting the planet by individually packaging (!) prunes, I guess I can see silver lining in all this stupidity. The increased PR for “dried plums” (grrrrrr) could mean that they will appear more frequently in American cooking, and I’m all for that. But the phrase “dried plums” will never roll off my tongue. No matter how out of fashion it may sound, they will always be prunes to me.

Chicken Marbella
Reprinted from The New American Cooking, by Joan Nathan. Originally published in The Silver Palate Cookbook, by Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso.

This is a great recipe for a dinner party, since you can assemble it beforehand and just pop it into the oven 40 minutes before dinner. Joan Nathan writes that she likes to double the amount of prunes when she makes it.

Ingredients:

6 lbs boneless, skinless chicken breasts, halved
1 full bulb garlic, finely pureed
1/4 cup dried oregano
Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups pitted prunes
1 cup of pitted green olives, or a mix of olives, such as Greek, Moroccan or French
1/2 cup capers with about a tablespoon of their juice
6 bay leaves
1 cup of brown sugar
1 cup of white wine
1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

1. Place the chicken in a large bowl. Cover it with the garlic, oregano, salt, pepper, vinegar, olive oil, prunes, olives, capers and juice, and bay leaves. Rub the chicken well with the marinade, and refrigerate, covered, ideally overnight, but at least for 2 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

3. Arrange the chicken in a single layer in 1 or 2 large, shallow baking pans and spoon marinade over evenly. Sprinkle with brown sugar, and pour white wine around, but not on, the chicken.

4. Bake for about 40 minutes, basting every 10 minutes with the pan juices.

5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken, prunes, ollives and capers to a serving platter. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of pan juices, and sprinkle with the parsley. Pass the remaining pan juices in a separate bowl.

Yield: 10-12 servings