Restaurants: Tres Agaves

So many detractors have whined about Tres Agaves’ food not being “authentic” that I decided to do a little research to see if the restaurant has ever actually claimed that their cooking is authentically Mexican. After combing through their web site, the only relevant passage I could find is as follows:

“We serve wholesome, soulful, renditions of Jaliscan and other Central Highland classics.”

For those not familiar with the definition of the word “rendition,” I offer the following:

rendition [ren-dish-uhn]

1. the act of rendering.
2. a translation.
3. an interpretation.

Get it? An interpretation. So to anyone bitching about how their Abuelita would be turning over in her grave blah blah blah, I say this: Get over it. The food here is pretty damned good. And anyone who compares Tres Agaves to Chevy’s either a) has a personal beef with Tres Agaves’ management, or b) isn’t qualified to be writing food reviews. The comparison is simply ridiculous.

That said, the Tres Agaves is by no means perfect. The interior, though appealing and interesting, can get deafeningly loud. The crowd can be obnoxiously Neanderthal, but this can be avoided by simply staying away during televised sporting events. And the service, though not bad, is not spectacular either. The food, though, is so good that I have no problem overlooking all of this.

Carnitas are one of my favorite Mexican dishes, and Tres Agaves’ rendition is one of the best I’ve had. Tender, flavorful, perfect. The Carne en su Jugo -- Jaliscan-style slow-cooked beef in a broth with bacon, cilantro, onions & lime -- is also a standout and hints of what pastrami might taste like were its culinary origins south of the border.

Sides are served family-style in communal bowls and are a welcome departure from the usual: Ensalada de Repollo (cabbage, mango & serrano chile salad), Frijoles Refritos con Chorizo, Arroz del Dia, and homemade corn tortillas. I’ve always been very squeamish of chorizo because of its ingredients, so it was only by accident that I tried the Frijoles Refritos con Chorizo. It was a happy accident, and though I’m still spooked by this Mexican mystery meat, I feign blissful ignorance with this particular dish.

The chips, salsa and guacamole are all pretty terrific, too. The only slight disappointment is the salmon ceviche. On its own, it’s a bit too acidic and bitter. Tortilla chips, though, help balance it, and should be an integral part of the dish, rather than something that the customer is left to discover on his/her own.

Margaritas, as expected, are top-notch. I highly recommend the Hacienda Margarita made with Herradura Reposado. I wish the servers would offer the option of salt, though, since I’m a bit absent-minded; I never remember this until my cocktail arrives.

Mexican I’m not, so I can’t judge if Tres Agaves’ cuisine is authentic, whatever that means. I can, however, unequivocally state that Tres Agaves serves up its own excellent interpretation of Mexican food. But you shouldn’t take my word for it. Judge for yourself.

★ ★ ★

Tres Agaves
130 Townsend Street
San Francisco, CA 94107
(415) 227-0500

(Originally written 7/15/07)